Plastic welds- dress the weld???

rccaulfield · #1 21st April 2010, 07:41 PM

Anyone know if its possible to dress a weld on a plastic weld the same as you can with metal? To be clear i mean when you use a grinder to grind off the excess and get the weld smooth! (I cud be totally wrong there
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)
Looking at a few fairings that are absolutely mint on the outside but big repair welds are there on the inside-anything that can be done?
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iceman954 · #2 21st April 2010, 07:50 PM

why do u want to grind off excess on the inside its left that way for a reason... ie for strength.

hotboxzerox · #3 21st April 2010, 07:50 PM

sand down and a bitta body filler or similar?

iceman954 · #4 21st April 2010, 07:54 PM

Originally Posted by hotboxzerox

sand down and a bitta body filler or similar?

if u sand down u weaken the strength of it...
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rccaulfield · #5 21st April 2010, 08:28 PM

Originally Posted by iceman954

why do u want to grind off excess on the inside its left that way for a reason... ie for strength.

Why do u think- it looks SHITE!

iceman954 · #6 21st April 2010, 08:31 PM

Originally Posted by rccaulfield

Why do u think- it looks SHITE!

well who da fuck is gonna be lookin on the inside of it.... take the grinder to it and u soon find out.

rccaulfield · #7 21st April 2010, 08:32 PM

Originally Posted by iceman954

well who da fuck is gonna be lookin on the inside of it....use take the grinder to it and u soon find out.

wtf?? Fuck off man ur an idiot- its a restoration project.
Anyone know might try ken in the paintshop tomorow.

Norman Normal · #8 21st April 2010, 08:37 PM

the only way to plastic weld is with mesh. you melt the mesh into the plastic on both sides of the crack and layer more plastic over it. if you take that plastic off the back youd never know what is underneath. if its not done right youll be getting them done again,PROPERLY, then re painted

rccaulfield · #9 21st April 2010, 08:43 PM

Originally Posted by Norman Normal

the only way to plastic weld is with mesh. you melt the mesh into the plastic on both sides of the crack and layer more plastic over it. if you take that plastic off the back youd never know what is underneath. if its not done right youll be getting them done again,PROPERLY, then re painted

Know what ya mean
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Sure i'll see can it be done in the paintshop if he cant do it thats fair enuf- think it was a home repair and i recjon it cud be alot cleaner on the inside- tis on a cbr250 aswell so the inside of the fairing is as obvious as the outside!

Norman Normal · #10 21st April 2010, 08:45 PM

well if ya dont get it sorted ill repair it for ya, im in dunboyne

iceman954 · #11 21st April 2010, 08:50 PM

Originally Posted by rccaulfield

wtf?? Fuck off man ur an idiot- its a restoration project.
Anyone know might try ken in the paintshop tomorow.

yr the original restorer u know best......
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now go fuck yrself

HIGHSIDER · #12 21st April 2010, 08:50 PM

To answer your question...yes..
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But bear in mind a few factors...

What's the nature of the crack/break?
Is it in an area where there's a lot expected of that piece of fairing..load bearing or just cosmetic??

Prepare the surface best you can, I would'nt advise the use of a grinder, way too aggressive, scoring way too much then make a balls of it..
If you have to, get a new grind disc, good sharp edge and be very careful, a new disc will somewhat prepare a chamfer but you've got to be sooo careful

Bit of emery paper, 120 or 80 grit paper and prepare a good binding, chamfer even, much like ya do a steel plate, butt weld type joint, you'll be wanting it flat again so the chamfer is important for a good bond

Get the plastic weld sticks and your solder iron and prepare yourself...Get a heat gun...very useful tool, you want that to get heat into the joint and the surrounding area, much like you do when you weld cast iron, get the gasss before and pre heat...give the joint every chance

Like I said, use the heat gun and prepare the joint & the surronding area...and introduce the plastic weld rods using the hot solder iron...and away ya go....Bit of a knack to it, bit of pratice, take your time and you'll have a good joint..

It's time consuming, but the joint will only be as good as the time you've spent preparing, scoring, preheating & the actual welding.

Welding finished...now you can get the 120 paper and prepare for priming..
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Hope that helps...
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Oh I fancy a brew..
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Norman Normal · #13 21st April 2010, 08:55 PM

Originally Posted by HIGHSIDER

To answer your question...yes..
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But bear in mind a few factors...

What's the nature of the crack/break?
Is it in an area where there's a lot expected of that piece of fairing..load bearing or just cosmetic??

Prepare the surface best you can, I would'nt advise the use of a grinder, way too aggressive, scoring way too much then make a balls of it..
If you have to, get a new grind disc, good sharp edge and be very careful, a new disc will somewhat prepare a chamfer but you've got to be sooo careful

Bit of emery paper, 120 or 80 grit paper and prepare a good binding, chamfer even, much like ya do a steel plate, butt weld type joint, you'll be wanting it flat again so the chamfer is important for a good bond

Get the plastic weld sticks and your solder iron and prepare yourself...Get a heat gun...very useful tool, you want that to get heat into the joint and the surrounding area, much like you do when you weld cast iron, get the gasss before and pre heat...give the joint every chance

Like I said, use the heat gun and prepare the joint & the surronding area...and introduce the plastic weld rods using the hot solder iron...and away ya go....Bit of a knack to it, bit of pratice, take your time and you'll have a good joint..

It's time consuming, but the joint will only be as good as the time you've spent preparing, scoring, preheating & the actual welding.

Welding finished...now you can get the 120 paper and prepare for priming..
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Hope that helps...
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Oh I fancy a brew..
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all that and include the mesh also

HIGHSIDER · #14 21st April 2010, 08:57 PM

Ah you're right Norman.... forgot the support..
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..
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HIGHSIDER · #15 21st April 2010, 09:04 PM

Originally Posted by rccaulfield

Anyone know if its possible to dress a weld on a plastic weld the same as you can with metal? To be clear i mean when you use a grinder to grind off the excess and get the weld smooth! (I cud be totally wrong there
To view pics on this biker's forum - your post count must be 2 or greater.
)
Looking at a few fairings that are absolutely mint on the outside but big repair welds are there on the inside-anything that can be done?
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Just read the last part of your post...rcc

Fairings mint on the outside....but work done on the inside...
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Don't grind them man....you don't know what way they were prepared & welded..you'll end up weakening them...best leave them be

rccaulfield · #16 21st April 2010, 09:08 PM

Originally Posted by iceman954

yr the original restorer u know best......
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now go fuck yrself

people like u give this place a bad name- dont think iv ever gone into a thread and done nothin but insult sum1 who asked an honest question! Somethin tells me you wudn't speak to me like that in person. Theres a button in your cp press it
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Originally Posted by HIGHSIDER

To answer your question...yes..
To view pics on this biker's forum - your post count must be 2 or greater.

But bear in mind a few factors...

What's the nature of the crack/break?
Is it in an area where there's a lot expected of that piece of fairing..load bearing or just cosmetic??

Prepare the surface best you can, I would'nt advise the use of a grinder, way too aggressive, scoring way too much then make a balls of it..
If you have to, get a new grind disc, good sharp edge and be very careful, a new disc will somewhat prepare a chamfer but you've got to be sooo careful

Bit of emery paper, 120 or 80 grit paper and prepare a good binding, chamfer even, much like ya do a steel plate, butt weld type joint, you'll be wanting it flat again so the chamfer is important for a good bond

Get the plastic weld sticks and your solder iron and prepare yourself...Get a heat gun...very useful tool, you want that to get heat into the joint and the surrounding area, much like you do when you weld cast iron, get the gasss before and pre heat...give the joint every chance

Like I said, use the heat gun and prepare the joint & the surronding area...and introduce the plastic weld rods using the hot solder iron...and away ya go....Bit of a knack to it, bit of pratice, take your time and you'll have a good joint..

It's time consuming, but the joint will only be as good as the time you've spent preparing, scoring, preheating & the actual welding.

Welding finished...now you can get the 120 paper and prepare for priming..
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Hope that helps...
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Oh I fancy a brew..
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Right i'll suggest this to a pro and see ahat they say- the repair is quality on the outside so wont mess with it if dont have to- just never seen welds this high off the surface b4 and wondered can they be made less obvious
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jester83 · #17 21st April 2010, 09:18 PM

any pics? maby lads here that know something about it might have a better idea if they can see it??? like if its a high stress point...ect
might help???

rccaulfield · #18 21st April 2010, 10:03 PM

Originally Posted by jester83

any pics? maby lads here that know something about it might have a better idea if they can see it??? like if its a high stress point...ect
might help???

pickin it up 2moro- will lash a few up then- its at the nose cone and leftside fairing. I wont be usin it much- tbh i cud live with it cos its so mint on the outside but if it can be done why not!

iceman954 · #19 21st April 2010, 10:05 PM

Originally Posted by rccaulfield

people like u give this place a bad name- dont think iv ever gone into a thread and done nothin but insult sum1 who asked an honest question! Somethin tells me you wudn't speak to me like that in person. Theres a button in your cp press it
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Right i'll suggest this to a pro and see ahat they say- the repair is quality on the outside so wont mess with it if dont have to- just never seen welds this high off the surface b4 and wondered can they be made less obvious
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dude yr the one that called me idiot and i didnt insult u i gave u good advice ok i was wrong about inside of fairing that was gonna be on view......ask for speakin to u in person i tell it how it is....
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these are the last buttons on my pc im typing about this thread.

the landshark · #20 22nd April 2010, 12:02 AM

Originally Posted by rccaulfield

pickin it up 2moro- will lash a few up then- its at the nose cone and leftside fairing. I wont be usin it much- tbh i cud live with it cos its so mint on the outside but if it can be done why not!

ive a good nosecone in the shed plus a few other things, let me know what you stuck for
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edit: mines a mc22